Why these aerial hunters deserve a place in your garden

Dragonflies and damselflies are among the most spectacular insects you can welcome to a British garden. They are ancient, acrobatic and utterly compelling to watch, and they do not ask for much: still water, tall stems and a steady supply of smaller insects to hunt. If you have a pond, or are thinking of building one, you are already halfway there. The rest is about giving them the right perches and the right water conditions.

The three essentials: still water, sunshine and stems

Dragonfly and damselfly larvae are aquatic predators. They spend months or even years underwater before climbing a vertical stem to emerge as adults. That life cycle shapes everything about the pond you create.

• Still water – moving water, fountains and powerful pumps make life difficult for larvae. A quiet pond, or one with only a gentle circulation, is far better.
• Sunshine – aim for at least six hours of direct sun each day. Adults need warmth to fly and hunt, and larvae develop faster in sun-warmed water.
• Tall stems – these are the launch pads. Emergence, resting, territorial patrols and hunting all happen from vertical perches.

Shelter matters too. A pond tucked into a sunny corner, with a hedge or fence to break the wind, will attract far more insects than one exposed to every gust.

Planting for perches, emergence and hunting

Think vertically. A good dragonfly pond has a fringe of tall, sturdy plants around the margins, with some stems standing clear of the water. Native plants are best because they support the wider food web.

• Yellow flag iris (Iris pseudacorus) – tall, robust stems that are perfect for emergence. Plant in the shallow margins.
• Purple loosestrife (Lythrum salicaria) – a magnet for nectar-feeding insects and a fine perch for damselflies.
• Soft rush (Juncus effusus) – slim, vertical stems that hold their shape through winter.
• Flowering rush (Butomus umbellatus) – elegant umbels of pink flowers on stiff stems.
• Water mint (Mentha aquatica) – excellent for cover and late-season nectar.
• Water forget-me-not (Myosotis scorpioides) – low-growing but valuable for damselflies to rest among.

Add floating leaves, such as water lilies, for basking and egg-laying. Submerged oxygenators like hornwort and water crowfoot give larvae places to hide and hunt. Avoid invasive non-natives such as floating pennywort, water fern and parrot’s feather, which can smother a pond.

Making the water irresistible

Fish are the biggest mistake. Goldfish, koi and even some native fish will happily eat dragonfly larvae. If you want a thriving dragonfly pond, either leave fish out entirely or keep them in a separate pond. A wildlife pond with no fish will teem with invertebrates, which is exactly what larvae need.

Keep the water clean but not sterile. A layer of leaf litter and silt on the bottom is fine. Avoid pesticides, fertilisers and any chemical treatments. If blanket weed becomes a problem, remove it by hand in late summer, after emergence has finished. Barley straw, traditionally used to slow algae, can help but is not a quick fix.

Leave some open water. Duckweed and water lily leaves are useful, but a complete carpet of vegetation blocks light and reduces hunting space. Aim for a mosaic: open water, floating leaves and marginal stems.

Year-round care for a dragonfly-friendly pond

Resist the urge to tidy too much. In autumn, cut back only what is necessary. Leave stems at 15–20 cm above the water to provide winter perches and shelter for other wildlife. Seed heads can stay for the birds. In spring, clear excess growth from the margins, but keep some stems standing for the coming emergence season.

If you need to thin plants, do it in late summer after the main flight period. Never use weedkillers or insecticides near the pond. Even a small drift can kill larvae and the insects they feed on.

Watch for exuviae – the empty larval cases left on stems after emergence. Finding them is proof that your pond is working. Damselflies will usually appear first, delicate and weak-flying, followed by the larger dragonflies: hawkers, chasers and darters. With still water, tall stems and patience, you can turn a quiet corner of the garden into a hunting ground for these aerial masters.